Wow, what a roller coaster so far. I've walked about 130 km so far, over mountain ranges, along ridges, down steep slopes and through Swiss valleys. I'll try to give a day by day account.
The first day was wet at first, and at the top of the first climb I very nearly decided the whole thing was a silly idea. I was actually giving off steam at one point, so I lost a layer of clothing and put my foot down, this would not stop me. Many hours later I staggered through les Contamines to Notre Dame de le Gorge where I stayed the night.
The next day looked a lot better weather wise and started with some lovely pasture. The cows were tinkling their bells and the flowers were blooming. I came to Col du Bonhomme at about lunch time and could see an awfully long way from there, but there was more to come. I carried on up to Col du la Croix du Bonhomme and then decided to make the diversion to Col de Fours. At this point I had to do a fair bit of tramping in the snow, luckily I had splashed out on some new hiking poles when I passed through les Contamines so it was easy going. At the Col I met a group of five French people and asked them to take my photo. Their leader (called Heidi!) did so and then the six of us made the final accent to Nord Tete from where I could see the day's walk. It certainly looked impressive. They went back to their refuge, and I headed down the other side of the hill to Refuge Mottets. It was a long way down, and a lot of it was on snow. I really wanted to pull out my skis, and reach the bottom in about 5 minutes, but they must have been in my other bag ;-) At Mottets I met some good people, who have been with me on and off for the walk so far. Three of them are in this hostel right now.
The next day (Friday) Heidi's group came by the refuge just as I was packing up, so I walked with them for as long as I could keep up, but had to drop back eventually. At about 11:30 I came to the border at Col de la Seigne. That was a great view. I took plenty of pictures (as I have for the whole trip) so you can see them all once I return to England and put them online. Down into Italy and it got hot. For a while I walked level but then climbed up to Mont Favre Spur before descending past a ski resort into Courmayeur. Walking the long dusty road from the resort was hard. Anyone who has ever driven up to one in a car knows how steep they can be. I was glad to be going down but it was very hard on my feet. At the bottom I passed through Dolomme which was an amazing little village with winding streets and over hanging buildings, a great welcome to Italy. That night I stayed in Pensionne Venezia, and much to my disappointment was placed on the 3rd floor, without a lift! The owner spoke no English, and I spoken no Italian, so we both muddled along in French. I managed to find all the shops I needed, and I didn't miss breakfast so I figure everything went well
Saturday was a hard day. I waited a while in Courmayeur for Heidi to turn up at the bus stop. She took a bag with some of my stuff in it back to Chamonix because I was carrying too much weight with me. I gave her some of the kiwifruit jam I had been carrying for just such an occasion. After that things start to turn a little pear shaped. I took the route up to Rifugio Bertone but got a little lost. Well a lot lost actually. I spent 2 hours climbing up some scary slopes, scrambling over boulders and clinging to tree roots while desperately trying to get either foot onto something solid. Eventually I climbed out of a gully and found a grassy patch. I was very close to calling a rescue helicopter, but carried on up the hill to find the Rifugio. When I got there I texted mum and dad and almost broke down in tears. It was a very scary morning and when I think of how utterly stupid I was, and what could have happened, well I was very glad to be there in one piece. That afternoon lifted my spirits. A stunning walk along the ridge from Mont de la Saxe to Tete de la Tronche and then down into a beautiful hanging valley. I raced down the next valley to Rifugio Bonatti. Great meal and met up with some people from the previous days. None of them had trouble on the path where I got lost so it must just be my own fault.
I'm up to Sunday right? From Bonatti I dropped down to Val Ferret (Dad, I didn't see any ferrets, but they are quick little animals and may have been hiding). At just about the same time as the sun really started doing its thing I started going up hill to Grand Col Ferret which had me crossing from Italy to Switzerland. That night I stayed at le Dolent. Normally the hostel hosts large groups but because it was Sunday they had all gone home. The owners were kind enough to let me have a room, even though they left at about 8pm. I found I was locked in, but could escape via the dinning room windows :-)
And that brings me to today. An easy walk down hill to Issert. I bought some strawberries along the way and really enjoyed the little Swiss hamlet though which the Tour de Mont Blanc passes. Eventually I came to the hill climb, but it was only about 400m for the day which is the smallest so far. I am now at Pension En Plein Air in Champex. I've had a swim in the lake and spent about an hour on the computer. I would go out in the sun, but I am already a little toasted around the edges.
Tomorrow is the hardest of the lot. Fenetre D'Arpette takes 3 hours (I'm guessing 4 hours for me, and is 1200m above where I am right now. I'll be starting early to avoid the main heat of the day and should be well past the summit before lunch.
I am missing home of course, but thankfully I haven't much time to sit and think about just how far away form everyone I am. Text messaging is brilliant. I was glad to text Peter on Saturday night and get replies from other people. All spending the evening at the flat I assume :-) Bronwyn and Nina, I think I am going to need about a dozen packets of Winegums (the English ones only), can you bring them to Spain pleeease :-) Right I had better let someone else use this. Au revoir
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A sweet little French house on the way to Bionnassay
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Walking uphill after Notre Dame de la Gorge
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The valley leading to La Balme from Notre Dame de la Gorge
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Looking up at Aiguilles des Glaciers from Refuge des Mottets
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The French/Italian border at Col de la Seigne
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The walk along the ridge of Mont de la Saxe
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A small valley facing the Grandes Jorasses, on the way to Rifugio Bonatti
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The Italian/Swiss border at Col de Ferret
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Glad to hear you're safe (just!). Don't forget to wear your sunscreen, remember Slip, Slop, Slap!!
P.S Headless Chickens won the soccer YAY! And I got my new phone. What email do you want your personalised photo of my butt sent to ?
Drama. Excitement. Danger.
Sounds like Emmy-award winning reality TV to me!
(Definitely better than doing work!)
I am getting us some good maps!!!
Only 1 month and 5 days till you get more winegums!
Take care
Well done, Craig :-) Your "Day 6" bulletin through the Swiss mountains is really exiting reading, including the morning drama on the rough area Saturday. Your writing bring me to remember common situations from my own travels. Also I'm glad to see how well such a weblog works. Now we look forward to see your pictures!
Carry on. Best wishes,
Jørgen.
Sorry about the lack of photos, this hostel has rather old computers and really couldn't handle it. I am expecting good things in a weeks time when I pass through Switzerland again. Right now I am setting off up the mountain. talk to you later.
Real exciting tramping - great to get
the latest update - we look forward to
viewing all your photos in due course.
Take care!!
Now that's what I want to hear! Lost in the Mountains, being chased by Lions and Flying Saucers and Teapots no doubt! Danger danger danger!
Glad to hear your trip is already full of excitement. You seem to be awfully "good friends" with this Heidi person ;) when do we see the photos (I'm talking about the landscape of course)
Peace out
tPeter
From Champex there are a number of alternative routes. the main choice is between going up very high over Fenetre D'Arpette http://web.tiscali.it/no-redirect-tiscali/tourmontblanc/stage5-42.htm or heading down the valley and around the mountain to Bovine (moo).
Several TXTs from Craig
24/06/03 18:14 (8:14 am Tuesday in Switzerland)
Can you find a weather forecast for the Fenetre? It looks bad one range over but I don't want to miss this if I don't have to.
Craig
24/06/03 18:24 (8:24 am Tuesday in Switzerland)
I've decided not to do it. Some people just came down and told me that 3 others fell down yesterday and that Bovine is a good route. Better safe than sorry.
Craig
24/06/03 19:00 (9 am Tuesday in Switzerland)
Nice and sunny now. About to turn back and go over the top. Other range is clear too. Text u l8r
Craig
24/06/03 20:31 (10:30 am Tuesday in Switzerland)
In case there is no reception up there I thought I should say good night now. Weather is fine and others on trail. Will text if I can from the top.
Craig
24/06/03 22:53 (1 pm Tuesday in Switzerland)
Made it! I'm about to enjoy lunch at Fenetre D'Arpette (2665m). Not much snow to report but plenty of loose boulders along the way.
Craig
Good on you mate. Where tonight?
Dad
24/06/03 23:01 (1 pm Tuesday in Switzerland)
Either Trient or Le Peuty.
Craig
25/06/03 8:03 (10pm Tuesday in Switzerland)
Tonight I am in the rafters of Refuge Du Peuty, a coverted (sic) barn up the road from Trient. The cows and their bells are outside, but a friend gave me ear plugs :-)
Craig
http://web.tiscali.it/no-redirect-tiscali/tourmontblanc/image-14.jpg
25/06/03 20:45
How's Balme?
Dad
25/06/03 20:52 (11 am in France)
Col de Balme. The Swiss/French border. It's a little windy, and misty down in the valley. I can see Chamonix from here.
Craig
Craig, sounds like a wonderful trip that you are on with your Friends. Please take lost of pictures. Thoughts of Safety and Carinig coming your way..come home through the States, would like to see you.
Best,
Hal
26/06/06 17:01 (7 am in France)
Good morning, weather report please. I am at the start of day 10 heading for the ladders, after that is la Flegere, and I was hoping to reach refuge Bellachat.
Craig
Where U now?
Dad
26/06/06 17:38 (7:30 am in France)
I'm at Auberg la Boerne. Nice place but not spending a rest day here.
Craig
I meant which town?
Dad
26/06/06 17:50 (8 am in France)
Tre-les-champ. I'm going to set off for the ladders pretty soon, and hope it clears up so I can pass le Brevent.
Craig
Webcam at Argentieres shows cloud on peaks but breaking. No forecast yet.
Dad
Forecast for Chamonix Thurs. Thunderstorm - improving towards evening. Mostly cloudy. Becoming sunny spells.
Dad
26/06/03 21:18 (11 am in France)
At Tete aux Vents now, Little overcast but looks like will get much hetter. Might in past Flegere today and have all this wrapped up by 12 2morrow. txt u thn
Craig
27/06/06 21:42 (11:42 am in France)
Sitting at the cafe on top of the le Brevent. All downhill from here :-) hope for internet the afternoon to recount the adventure thus far. Talk to you soon.
Craig
For a picture of le Brevent (but not of Craig) click the link below this.
Chamonix cam looks fine. Forecast thunder late afternoon. U going Chamonix or Merlet then Houches to finish?
Dad
27/06/06 21:56 (11:56 am in France)
Walk to les Houches train station to complete the circle the(n) train back to Chamonix for a bed and to pick up my stuff (hopefully). Geneva tomorrow afternoon.
Craig